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Discover Osaka: sushi, tattoos, and a flourishing nightlife

The EconomistKai Tatsuo, Hori Beni, Kanayo Ueda
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  • Osaka's Cultural Identity: Characterized as a "rambunctious merchant town" with a friendly, outgoing population that contrasts with the "politeness and diffidence" often associated with Japan elsewhere; locals are described as eager to share their city with visitors.
  • Key Resident Profiles: The narrative highlights three long-term residents:
    • Kai Tatsuo (65): Works at "Itamai," a kappo restaurant in Osaka where diners sit on the same level as the chef; he begins his day at 4 a.m. at the fish market.
    • Hori Beni (American): An artist living in Osaka for 13 years; he practices tattooing, a trade less socially accepted in Japan than in the West, yet has carved out a niche despite cultural stigmas.
    • Kanayo Ueda: A poet who moved to Osaka at age 16 and resides in Nishinari Ward, advocating for exploration of less affluent areas over standard tourist trails.
  • Fish Market Dynamics: The daily market, roughly eight times the size of Osaka's baseball stadium, is one of the few major markets in Japan open to visitors; it features a frantic tuna auction where stalemates are resolved via rock-paper-scissors, creating a "loud, frantic" atmosphere.
  • Historical Context: Following the leveling of much of the city during the Second World War, older buildings are rarer than expected, yet hidden temples like Hozenji have survived to offer "quiet moments" amidst the city's rambunctious energy.
  • Sento (Public Bathhouse) Customs:
    • Post-war reconstruction cemented sento as integral to urban life due to a lack of running water and gas in private homes.
    • Strict hygiene protocols require bathing and lathering in stalls before entering the communal bath to remove all soap residue.
    • Social dynamics include a "sense of community" where people of all ages and jobs gather naked together, though separate sections exist for men and women.
  • Tattoo Restrictions: While tattoos are prevalent among locals like Hori Beni, they remain associated with organized crime, leading many sento establishments to ban entry for tattooed individuals; visitors are advised to ask about policies or seek a local friend's assistance.
  • Culinary Landscape:
    • Osaka is regarded as the food capital of Japan, specifically for street food like Takoyaki (octopus-filled batter balls) and fresh octopus on a stick found in Shinsaikai.
    • The "kappo" dining style, invented in Osaka, emphasizes intimate service and social connection over formal menus, with chefs and diners sharing the same seating level.
  • Recreational Activities:
    • Go Strategy Game: A complex board game where the objective is to claim more territory than an opponent, widely played in local salons.
    • Nightlife: The "America-mura" district and various theme bars (including Buddhist and railroad themes) offer a "flourishing nightlife" that reportedly lasts longer than in other Japanese cities.
  • Tourist Recommendations: Residents universally suggest visiting Osaka over Tokyo, citing better food, friendlier people, and a longer nightlife; visitors are encouraged to leave inhibitions at the door, as locals typically accept newcomers as "fellow Osakans" after only one or two nights.
Discover Osaka: sushi, tattoos, and a flourishing nightlife — Summary