Interview, Fireside Chat, Other
Fernando Garcia, Co-Creative Director of Oscar de la Renta & Founder/Creative Director of Monse
Fernando Garcia's Background and Early Path
- Originally pursued architecture (Notre Dame degree) rather than fashion in 2004 due to a lack of viable fashion career opportunities in the Dominican Republic.
- Initially aimed for a career in the film industry, which drove his early interest in red carpet events and designers.
- Recruited by Oscar de la Renta in 2009 after presenting self-taught sketches, leading to an internship despite Garcia's lack of technical draping or sewing skills at the time.
Rise at Oscar de la Renta and Departure
- Promoted to principal designer within six years before leaving the house at the peak of his career.
- The decision to launch his own label, Monse, was driven by his partner Laura Fernández's desire to explore independence; Garcia initially only dreamed of taking over an existing house.
- The announcement of their departure to Oscar de la Renta coincided with Hillary Clinton's scheduled fitting, creating a high-pressure scenario where Oscar reportedly asked Clinton, "They're leaving me. Can you believe this?"
- After a week of tension, Oscar agreed to let them launch Monse, with the condition that they assist in designing his successor's first collection.
Founding and Strategy of Monse
- Launched Monse with a "deconstructed" aesthetic, accidentally derived from cutting up affordable shirts from Goodwill and deconstructing them to lower initial production costs.
- Adopted an "Instagram-first" design philosophy, prioritizing visual captivation and social media compatibility to build an instant following.
- Successfully filled a market void for affordable, menswear-inspired women's fashion that balanced luxury with accessibility.
- The label features unisex and gender-neutral clothing, evolving from its menswear origins to include boxier silhouettes and inclusive casting for both male and female models.
Return to Oscar de la Renta
- Returned to Oscar de la Renta less than two years after founding Monse to serve as co-creative director while retaining ownership of his separate label.
- The two-year hiatus allowed the design team to disrupt traditional Oscar aesthetics (e.g., re-evaluating the relevance of sequins) by gaining perspective outside the house's "umbrella."
- The brand's global client base (50% US, 50% international) influences the design process, requiring cultural adaptability (e.g., designing Ramadan caftans that inspire gowns for US customers).
- Garcia emphasizes that the company's "melting pot" culture, featuring diverse backgrounds in production and design, fosters organic innovation through cultural friction.
Red Carpet Collaborations and Celebrity Relationships
- Approaches celebrity styling organically rather than forcing specific clients (e.g., Blake Lively, Scarlett Johansson, Billie Eilish) to follow a specific pitch.
- Billie Eilish's choice to wear a viral, avant-garde gown at the Met Gala was driven by her desire to be "scared" and embrace a challenge, marking a transformative moment for the brand's visibility.
- Key personal milestones include designing for Selena Gomez during her rise (launching Monse's visibility) and designing Scarlett Johansson's private wedding dress.
- Garcia prioritizes genuine connection over transactional relationships, believing that clients sense when a designer cares about their personal lives and experiences.
Creative Process and Business Model
- Designs follow a 50/50 split: 50% safe, new versions of successful previous items to ensure business stability, and 50% experimental pieces (with a 20% failure rate).
- Music (specifically M83) is a primary inspiration source, influencing mood and creative direction during subway rides between offices.
- The pandemic forced a shift toward short-form video production, with Garcia now directing two-minute "mini movies" to showcase collections.
- Garcia advocates for a "five-week plan" rather than long-term five-year strategies, urging designers to remain permeable to current societal shifts and trends.
Inclusion, Pride, and Industry Trends
- Credits the fashion industry with making his coming out as a gay man in 2014 significantly easier than it might have been in other sectors.
- Views inclusivity and diversity as inherent to Oscar de la Renta's DNA, citing the presence of pattern makers from Eastern Europe and African-American staff in the fabric room.
- Observes a post-pandemic shift toward "braver" and more individualistic dressing, with consumers eager to "rock it" if they have the confidence.
- Notes that the fashion world has accelerated its return to high-end, creative dressing, with galas and red carpet events driving renewed demand for elaborate designs.
Future Outlook and Advice
- Recommends that aspiring designers work for admired mentors to learn from their mistakes and develop a personal creative vernacular.
- Anticipates continuing to explore film direction, driven by the organic flow of opportunities rather than forced planning.
- Advises patience in career progression, emphasizing that success often arrives when one allows the world to influence their work rather than trying to force outcomes.
- Personal style remains consistent with practicality, favoring Notre Dame t-shirts and shorts over shopping for high fashion in his daily life.