Interview, Fireside Chat
Loyd Grossman - An American-British Gastronome on Global Food Trends: Talks at GS Session Highlights
- Lloyd Evans was born in Boston, studied there, then moved to England to study at the LSE and Cambridge before entering television.
- The concept for MasterChef was nearly rejected by a senior BBC executive who dismissed the idea, asking, "why would someone want to watch other people eat meat?"
- The show's success is attributed to timing within a 30-year UK food revolution, specifically by transforming food programming from instructional content into populist entertainment.
- Evans believes the "food craze" has not peaked; he argues that dining remains a relatively affordable source of new experiences compared to travel.
Current and Emerging Food Trends
- Superfoods and Craft Goods: There is currently "enormous attraction" to superfoods, functional foods, and craft beers, though Evans predicts an inevitable backlash.
- Declining Trends: Molecular cooking, particularly the hyper-futuristic style pioneered in Spain, is beginning to fade due to its exclusivity.
- Rising Trends:
- Foraging and "locovore" cooking (e.g., the Noma model), focusing on ingredients grown within five miles or five yards of the kitchen.
- "Dirty American" cooking, characterized by heavy items like ribs.
- Cyclic popularity of specific international cuisines, such as Peruvian.
- The "one-item" restaurant model (e.g., burger bars, lobster shops) has become the most significant current trend in the restaurant sector.
Industry Observations and Disagreements
- Queuing Culture: Evans strongly dislikes the trend of restaurants operating on a "no reservations" basis, describing the hours-long queues for brunch in trendy spots like Tribeca as "very un-British."
- Generational Divide: While Evans rejects the practice, he acknowledges that for people in their 20s, the queue functions as a social buildup and part of the dining experience.
- British Culinary Identity: Despite initial revulsion at the scotch egg upon arriving in the UK, Evans identifies the traditional Sunday roast as the most emblematic British food experience.
- Ingredient Quality: Evans emphasizes that British cuisine is built on a foundation of historically high-quality local produce, including world-class fish, beef, asparagus, and strawberries.
Career Philosophy and Personal Reflection
- Evans cites his father's advice, "I don't care what you do as long as you love doing it," as a guiding principle, though he notes it is "extremely unhelpful" practically.
- He states that he derives the most enjoyment from "whatever comes next," maintaining a forward-looking perspective on his career.